Fashion Essay

What is the look of next season? There is no need to go to Paris to see what new trends await us. The spring 2004-fashion shows recently took place in Paris, New York Times fashion reporters Gina Bellafante and Cathy Horton, gave a clear preview of the fashions to come. Many of the top designers had similar approaches with their new spring lines, which were in contrast to the somber mood influenced by the war.

“A Pastel Twilight in Milan” (New York Times, Oct. 5, 2003,B9) was the headline Cathy Horton chose to describe some of the vibrant spring shows. These illuminating designs came from Roberto Cavaili, Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi. What distinguished Cavaili’s line was that the clothes were much more extravagant than usual. There were leather and suede jackets, western style mini dresses, corset linings, fur, rhinestones, and feathers. Dolce & Gabbana also brought a twist on their usual designs, which are known for being very sexual.

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For once, they took a subtle and sophisticated approach. Color has been a big part of the collections but nobody brought more variety and imagination than Karl Lagefeld at Fendi. “The watery blues, pinks, burnished oranges and lunar yellows seemed blended in a celestial paint box,” Horton explained. Skirts and dresses looked fresh and delicate made of paper-thin, transparent leather, wrapped loosely around the body creating a whimsical appearance. Everyone seemed to be taking a watercolor brush to the clothes in reaction to the stalled economy and hangover of the war.

Of course not all designers have followed this feminine style. Jun Takahashi of Undercover had a very unique show. Unlike the others getting vibrant with the new styles, his colors were neutral and his entire spring line had a very rustic, vintage feel. The clothes were enlarged and some of the models walked the catwalk barefoot. He put two identical twins in his show. In reference to of Diane Arbus’s famous photographs of twins, Mr. Takahashi dressed them in the same outfits, but on one sister the outfit appeared to be stretched and tarnished while the other sisters outfit looked normal. This show embraced themes of individualism and antiwar protest. The antiwar message was most vividly apparent through the selection of music; [John Lennon’s bawled “God” and Jimi Hendrix’s version of the “Star Spangled Banner.”] The show ended in a spree of antiwar T-shirts.

With the exception of Takahashi, most designers exhibited a soft feminine spring line. Everything from pleated skirts, lace, prints, colors and ruffles will be found this spring, rather than torn edges, pants, or neutral colors. Women will be women once again. Even the sneaker will mirror this feminine attitude. In Gina Bellafante’s article “The Sneaker Plays Dress Up” the history of sneakers is briefly examined. There was a time when women would go to work in their broad-shouldered suits with Reebocks on their feet. Times have since changed. Now there are many designers who are conscious of the workingwoman. Manillo Blanc has paired up with Timberland to make a “feminine” Timberland boot. Steve Madden also introduced many styles of “girly” sneakers. Who would have ever thought sneakers would have heels.

The fashion industry is occasionally looked at as superficial and trivial but the recent warfare has affected everyone. The fashion industry is doing its part to bring good spirits to a hurt world.

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